South Carolina

November 8th- Carolina Beach NC to Bird Island SC

Rhiannon caught up to us in Carolina Beach after getting repairs to their vessel in Virginia. We shared “sea stories” and had an enjoyable evening. In the morning we acquired more bacon and egg sandwiches from the North End Cafe and headed out for the Cape Fear River. We crossed into South Carolina, made a left turn down Little River and anchored near Bird Island for the night. Rhiannon moved on to a marina in Myrtle Beach.

We followed our track from last year into the Bird Island anchorage and dropped the hook. Ollie was very happy about the beach access. Unfortunately he was very unhappy later on as he was covered with sharp burrs from the beach grass. Lynne spent around an hour picking them out. The next morning we were very careful and didn’t spend much time on land.

Some scenes from Bird Island.

I found this grave marker on a hill.

Evergreen anchored at Bird Island.

Sunset.

November 9th- Bird Island to Thorofare Creek SC

The ICW through Myrtle Beach really reminds me of a ditch. I think this every time I pass through here. The nickname for the entire ICW is “the ditch”. There are many different bodies of water that make up the ICW. In Myrtle Beach, it’s a ditch.

After going through the Socastee Swing Bridge we were on the, much more scenic, Waccamaw River.

Looking like fall around here.

We anchored for the night in Thorofare Creek. It’s a big sand dune in the middle of the swamp. We had a nice evening EXCEPT for the swarm of mosquitoes that stormed Evergreen at sundown. We need to have all the screens up before sundown.

November 10th- Thorofare Creek to Dewees Creek SC

Lynne brought Ollie on the morning commando raid. There are trails to walk on at Thorofare.

The morning light was just right for taking pictures leaving the anchorage.

Spanish moss.

We had good current in the morning so we swiftly made it down the Waccamaw to Winyah Bay. At times we were sailing at 8 knots down the bay with a big speed boost from the current. The rest of the day we had a mix of current going with and against us. The big southern tides push a lot of water through the inlets. Today we traveled 57 nautical miles to Dewees Creek. This was to set ourselves up for passage through Charleston Harbor which is complicated by 2 bridges and the strong current through Elliot Cut.

Coffee and multiple navigation devices get me through the day.

We had this guy performing for us.

We anchored for the night on Dewees Creek and I managed to get Ollie on “shore” after sundown. Shore was a pile of oyster shells in the middle of the salt marsh. We could hear dolphin sounds late into the night.

November 11th Veterans Day- Dewees Creek to Steamboat Creek SC

Today was a cold grey day. It rained occasionally. We were both bundled up in sweaters and foul weather gear. Lynne made hot meals, hot coffee, and hot chocolate at various periods through the day (and the next).

We anchored for the night in Steamboat Creek. It’s a good storm anchorage. This doesn’t really qualify as a storm for us but it’s still a good place to stop, light the wood stove, and dry out.

November 12th- Steamboat Creek to Beaufort SC

I thought today the weather would be better. I was wrong. It was colder with more wind and rain. Thankfully I have two sets of foul weather gear, multiple sweaters, and wool socks. Parts of the day we actually had some decent motor-sailing. The extra exercise keeps me going.

Finally Beaufort! We grabbed a mooring, lit the lamps, the stove, and had big bowls of chili for dinner.

November 13th- Beaufort SC

We can’t pass Beaufort without spending a little time. There is a park along the river that Ollie really enjoys. People sit in the adjacent restaurants and film him dashing for his frisbee. He’s probably on YouTube somewhere. We washed some laundry and picked up a few cans of diesel fuel before heading into town.

The trip into town was “all about” picking up things for tonight’s dinner. First stop, Low Country Market for a tomato pie. Next stop, Olive The Above for a bottle of Coratina olive oil. Then on to Chapman’s Grocer for a loaf of rosemary ciabatta bread. We can’t pass Beaufort without a tomato pie! Lynne prepared a feast when we were back on Evergreen. After a couple of tough days a little luxury was much appreciated.

Some scenes from Beaufort South Carolina.

Lynne and Ollie getting ready to raid Chapman’s Grocer.

The mooring field. The boat in the foreground looks mostly abandoned. It does have a resident. The “ball” at the top of the mast is a sleeping pelican. He spends his evenings up there.

Close up. Amazing that he/she can stay balanced while sleeping. The rest of the boat is a pelican toilet.

Our Beaufort feast!