April 5th- Man-O-War Cay, Abaco Islands, Bahamas
On Monday (April 3rd) we loaded up Evergreen with as much water as we could fit and sailed from Marsh Harbour to Man-O-War Cay. There are two inner harbors at Man-O-War with rental moorings but we had intel that there was a third protected harbor behind Old Scopleys Rock. It’s a nice spot, out in the open air, and has a beautiful beach to land Ollie at. Anchoring was a bit difficult when we arrived. I tried a few spots but couldn’t get the anchor to set due to rocks and grass. Finally I put Evergreen’s bow right over a sandy bar that extends from the beach. The anchor grabbed right away. Later, I snorkeled to the anchor and dove down to see how it was set (good). The clear Bahamas water sure makes anchoring less of a mystery. Since I’ve been swimming almost every day, I’ve also used my time here to scrape some growth off of the hull and check the center board.
The beach at the cove. There is a little cabana with a picnic table in the middle.
This pirate flag is on Old Scopleys Rock. A good omen.
Man-O-War Cay was (is still) the boat building capital of the Abacos. It was another British Loyalist community whose settlers fled the US after the revolution. It was owned primarily by one family, the Alburys. The descendants of Benjamin and Eleanor Albury populated most of the island and their descendants still own most of the businesses to this day. Lynne bought a new bag from the Albury Sail shop. We visited Albury Brothers Boats which make the (fiberglass) Albury 23 power boats that we’ve seen all over the islands. We also went to the wood shop of another Albury who is in the process of building a wooden Abaco sailing dinghy. He was a really interesting guy and we spent a lot of time talking “wood” and the history of Man-O-War.
Man-O-War is a small island. There are around 215 residents and no less than three churches. It is a dry island and no alcohol is sold or allowed to be consumed in public. Perhaps this has helped to preserve the island from tourists and resorts.
I’m currently reading a book by Ralph Johnston, the sculptor that settled Little Harbour in the 1950s. After leaving the US he and his family lived on Man-O-War for almost a year. Eventually he purchased a 47′ schooner, the Langosta, from Norman Albury. He used this vessel to settle Little Harbour. It’s really interesting to be reading his diary passages about life on Man-O-War in the 50’s while walking the same island. I don’t think the island has changed much. Dorian wrecked this island too but it has come back. There was a marina, before the storm. It is still in the process of being rebuilt. The islander I spoke to felt that the new marina would help island commerce when it is done.There are no big restaurants but we found a little place that sells lunch and ICECREAM!
Albury Brothers boat shop.
The Woodshop.
Some scenes from Man-O-War Cay.
The Library.
Evergreen anchored off Man-O-War Cay.
Sunset at Man-O-War.
Oh yeah. I got a conch horn today. A new sunset tradition. Ollie loves it.