June 21st- Belhaven to Alligator River, NC
We had a productive few days in Belhaven. Squalls are still ripping through the area but they tend to last only an hour or so. We needed to fill our propane tanks. R & S 66 Services is the cheapest anywhere. Lynne ventured up to the Dollar General for a few food items. Before heading out we docked Catalpa at River Forest Marina for diesel and ice.
Belhaven Squalls.
Belhaven’s unique wooden seawall with River Forest Marina in the background.
We then spent most of the day on the Alligator – Pungo Canal. On the way south we transited this area with many other vessels. Today we saw only three.
This bridge seems to be in the middle of nowhere.
The Alligator River is beautiful. After completing the canal we decided to go off of the ICW and go further up the river for the night. It is surrounded by the Alligator River National Wildlife Preserve. Remote doesn’t begin to describe it. We anchored Catalpa in some charted deep water. As always, the choice was due to there being a boat ramp (down another crazy canal) somewhat nearby. In this case “nearby” was over a mile away. The rest of the banks are swamp so it’s a priority to find a spot for Ollie.
A buoy. We must be on the right track.
After hitting a few underwater stumps and being eaten alive by insects, a boat ramp.
A happy dog. Not that happy. The bugs drove us nuts. He was like a Tasmanian Devil.
A few morning scenes from the Alligator River.
Catalpa anchored on the Alligator River.
June 22nd- Alligator River to Elizabeth City, NC
Due to the remoteness of the location the stargazing was amazing. Unfortunately due to the shear volume of insects the stargazing lasted about two minutes. Even covered with bug spray, they still swarm. Sometimes they just bounce off of you. I’d need a space suit if I was living out here. We were going to anchor again on the Alligator tonight but the insect population won. We have to exit this river.
With Catalpa still being swarmed by bugs, we went down the river and out on the Albemarle Sound. The breeze came up. The sail was unfurled. The bugs left. We had a great crossing. Next up, the Pasquotank River.
I guess this guy didn’t make it.
I kept watching the clouds build and get darker. Catalpa raced up the river toward Elizabeth City. Eventually we realized we weren’t going to make it. We furled the genoa and got out our foulies, lifelines, and life preservers.
When the first squall hit, Catalpa heeled way over from the wind (with no sails up). What a gust! The rain came down. Eventually the wind wasn’t as intense but the lightning made up for it. Riding a lightning rod, in the middle of a big river, during a storm, can be intense. We made it up to Elizabeth City and a wet, rattled, captain dropped the hook for the night. We had more storms but were protected this far up.
One more storm around sunset.
Sunset and a downpour.
June 23rd- Elizabeth City, NC to The Great Dismal Swamp, Douglas Landing, VA
Coffee, curry egg rollups, start the diesel, up anchor.
We had a quiet, peaceful, night. We started the day with the Elizabeth City bridge.
A few more of Elizabeth City.
An old railroad bridge.
Further up the Pasquotank. Into the jungle.
Notice the chair.
The admiral on watch. Scanning the jungle for wildlife.
The lock at Smith Mills. We are inside of it. It’ll raise Catalpa 6 feet. There is some knotweed but it’s nothing as compared to the fall journey.
Onward to The Great Dismal Swamp.
We crossed into Virginia.
On our southern migration we spent the night at the Dismal Swamp welcome center. We’d heard about Douglas Landing from another cruiser. We decided to tie up there for the evening.
Lynne and Ollie getting some exercise.
Catalpa docked at Douglas Landing.
