March 12th- Green Turtle Cay to Marsh Harbor, Abaco Islands Bahamas

Last night we got out for one last evening walk around New Plymouth. Being a Saturday night, it was lively in town. Many kids were playing around the basketball courts. A group of older, screaming, laughing, kids broke off from the group and ran up the road toward the Turtle Crawl Cafe. The TCC is a small cafe on Crown street that is only open at night on certain days. It’s been closed the whole time we’ve been here. They are the sole purveyor of ice cream on the island. They’ve been closed because the boat hadn’t brought any ice cream over.

I intercepted one of the running, screaming, laughing, kids.

“They have any ice cream tonight?”

“YEAH! They got ice cream.”

Lynne and I split a cup of fudge ripple. It was very good! It was also fun to watch this big group of local kids having a blast. Some were very curious about Oliver.

On our walk back to the marina Donny and his assistant, Mark, pulled up to us in a golf cart. He informed us that he had spoken to someone who was near Whale Passage today and it was bad. He told me to get on the VHF radio when I wake up and try to find out what is going on out there.

“Daaaahlings, YOU do not want to go through the Whaaale on a baaad day. You stay here till it’s safe.”

On one side of the Abaco Islands is the Atlantic Ocean. The other side is the shallow Sea of Abaco. There are also reefs around all the islands. Next to Green Turtle Cay is Whale Cay. There are openings on each side of Whale Cay where the water rushes in and out of the Sea of Abaco into the Atlantic. Behind Whale Cay is Middle Bar which has shallow, sandy, shoals that extend most of the way to Treasure Cay. There is a route through the shallow area but it’s difficult and if you get stuck you have big problems. Not really an option if the water is rough. As far as going around The Whale, through Whale Cay Passage, I was told to be very careful. It sinks ships. Disney tried bringing cruise ships through it but gave up on the venture due to the unpredictable nature of the sea there. So while it’s only a mile or two, we needed to take it seriously.

In the morning, I had heard a couple boats had made it through and it was OK. Good. Later, when we were preparing to leave, I got a phone call from a boat I had been in contact with the day before. He turned his trawler around and was going to wait and see if things calmed down. He said there seemed to be breakers across the whole passage. Indecision. Donny already had reservations for the slip but was willing to let us stay.

He said, ” Go out and look at it. If it looks baaad, come back.”

Good enough. We had a plan. We said our goodbyes to our new friends. We had homemade date squares for breakfast (a gift). Lynne also got this beautifully hand made doll from a cruiser on SV Sabbatical before shoving off.

Mascot 2. Ollie is still Mascot 1.

We made our way out of the marina and out of the harbor. Later we got another call from the captain of the trawler (Almost Heaven). He made it through and there were no breaking waves in the cut. We saw other boats going through. No problem. There were 5 to 6 foot seas but there was a long distance between each wave. Evergreen handled it well. We enjoyed the trip. Lynne took some nice pictures.

Whale Cay.

Tip of Great Guana Cay. Just after the passage. Pretty calm.

Other than some morning nervousness, we had a good passage to Marsh Harbour. We had a little sailing but mostly the diesel engine did the work due to a head wind.

March 13th- Marsh Harbour, Abaco Islands Bahamas

We’ve been to the public dock a few times but haven’t ventured far due to wind. I’m going to reserve my opinion until I get to know the place better.

Marsh Harbour is the third largest city in the Bahamas. According to my intel, it’s got a big grocery store with better prices than the out islands. Water and diesel fuel is available. There is a parts store. If you needed something shipped, this place is your best bet. There is a clinic should a medical issue happen. I believe there is an airport. I’ve seen taxis.

On the other hand it’s a city so there is some poverty and then there was the hurricane. I wish I could have seen Marsh before Hurricane Dorian, but it wasn’t to be. Many boats spent their entire winter here. There were many restaurants, stores, marinas, and houses along the waterfront. Marsh Harbour grew over a long time so it had the feel of an old place, which I can relate to. Hurricane Dorian wiped the slate clean. Marsh Harbour was hit very hard.

As a result of Dorian three tidal waves hit Marsh Harbour. Wave heights were 25 feet. After each wave, the water receded from the harbor leaving it dry. Winds were clocked as high as 280 mph. The sustained winds were 180mph for 52 hours. Not only were there hurricane winds, but Dorian generated tornadoes. 3 1/2 years later Marsh still has a “bombed out” feel to it. Green Turtle Cay and Hope Town had a lot of foreign money and aid coming in, Marsh Harbor – less. It still has a long road of rebuilding ahead. Some of the marinas and restaurants have come back. Others have not. There is still a lot of damage and ruins along the waterfront.

We are here to wait out some confused weather and get some groceries. Marsh Harbour is a little rough but so is New Bedford and I like that city. We acquired a “boat boy” today who helped me tie up the dinghy. His name is BJ. His tip covers services and dinghy protection. Ollie gave him a kiss on the dock, so I guess that is a good sign. I still owe him for today’s services.

This memorial was on the foundation of a house. The house was blown 1/2 mile inland. The 4 occupants were never found.

I got the Dorian information from this panel.

I’ll get some nicer (positive) photos soon.